Tanzania’s population is currently estimated at approximately 60 million, of which 2.7 million people reside in the countries largest city of Dar Es Salaam. The country is expected to have see serious increases in population over the next three decades, where the UN World Population Prospects estimates a doubling in population by 2050 - making Tanzania the 40th most densely populated country on the planet.

Da Es Salaam Cities ever growing buildings

These figures may not sound alarming to those unfamiliar with the country; and to those comparing figures of India and Nigeria. However, for those living in Tanzania today, and to those experiencing the change in their daily lives – it is clear that this transformation will be life changing.

The commercial capital of Dar es Salaam, has recently experienced serious infrastructural projects in the areas of road development. First was the suspension bridge in Kigamboni (which has been long overdue), completed in April 2016, the new flyover completed in 2019; and now, the New Salender Bridge - an ambitious project connecting Ocean Road directly into Oysterbay’s residential neighborhood, expected to complete sometime in 2021.

So why am I rambling about this anyway? Well, it’s because it effect one of my favorite drives home, it’s going to effect Oysterbay/Coco Beach where I feel nostalgic everytime I drive by, and because I feel it’s a project the city would have been better without.

I went to check out the street food vendors that have now crammed onto Coco Beach like never before, to get their views on these new developments.

Toure Drive, Coco Beach

Contruction underway of a new road to fascilite traffic from the bridge

Literally, there is no room to walk onto the beach without squiggling through the food banda’s anymore. When I was growing up, there were no permanent banda’s and sellers usually walked from car to car selling their snacks.

Priskus Mpeka was born in 1970 in Morogoro but grew up in Arusha. Life was tough and his family ended up in Dar es Salaam’s Msasani neighborhood. His father soon got work on Chole Road at the then Zimbabwean Embassy, as a cook. “My father worked there for more then 13 years”, said Priskus “and this is where Priskus grew up – in an outhouse within the Ambassador’s home”. As Priskus grew older, he and his siblings started selling mangoes, peanuts and cassava crisps to coco beach visitors (most of whom were Asian), after school and on weekends. On weekdays, they would also walk to the nearby International School.

“Wahindi’s loved coming to Coco Beach to relax, whilst Wazungu’s would swim and tan near the rocks. It became a culture of the city” he said. “People didn’t meet in their homes, but whenever they came to Coco Beach, they would catch up, their children would swim and play on the beach, and this is what boosted our business and encouraged us to stay.”

In 1989, him and other sellers moved opposite Oysterbay Hotel – however this didn’t last, as the owners didn’t want them in front of the Hotel. They soon settled at their current location with the help of Augustine Mrema, a popular government official of that time. Priskus say’s business has been up and down with the various authorities in power. They went through a lot of harassment where city authorities would close them down for environmental and health reasons. However, he says Magufuli’s government has been extremely beneficial to them where they pay a Tsh 20,000/- fee to the municipality and conduct their businesses without disruption.

I asked Priskus what he thought about the serious levels of pollution Coco Beach has experiencing over the years. He seemed quite unaware, and in fact he said that their association of 100 members, hire teams of women to clean every morning, leaving the beach spotless before they start their work. I don’t blame Priskus, he is merely trying to survive, and the envrionmental impact of his work to the beach is the last of his concerns.

Priskus shows the crisps he’s sealing of for a UK client

I’ve known Priskus for the last 25 years. Being a street food buff, I’ve drooled over thoughts of his Kitale’s while sitting in a lecture hall somewhere cold and grey. I remember the times I would get off a flight and head straight to Coco for a bite of Kitale, or anything salty and spicy I could get my hands on.

Priskus prides himself in having the best Muhogo (Cassava) crips ever. He tells me people from around the world ask for them, and shows me his current batch that is headed to the UK.

As a smart businessman, Priskus has included his children (which he says aren’t as smart as him), and has more then seven stalls at Coco Beach selling the full variety of favorites.

““I’m a one-stop-shop, and any customer who comes to me will always leave happy.””

One day, Priskus wants to have a car and a house of his own. “It’s difficult work, and I haven’t got lucky yet” he says. Priskus, like other vendors at Coco Beach trust the government will ensure their businesses survive. “The road will only allow more traffic to our stalls, and although parking will be limited, people will come for my quality and taste.”

Coco Beach has been part of my life since I can remember. It’s where I caught tiny fish in the scortching Sunday Sun, explored puddles that had squishy sea cucumbers; where I ate palm heart under shady rocks; and where I learnt to swim in its turquoise waves. Today, the site at Coco saddens me. The soil has turned grey, the sea cucumbers have disappeared, the corals destroyed. Plastic bottles, coal and rubbish is all I see on a backdrop that will never be the same.

I wish Priskus the best of luck and hope he can one day fulfill his dreams. I also hope that Coco Beach and Oysterbay will survive an ever increasing population, the test of time, and that society can work on making it the idyllic beach it once was.